Lamb biriyani with orange and whole garam masala  

2 oranges

¾ cup ghee, butter, or canola oil

1 teaspoon green cardamom pods

½ teaspoon whole cloves

Two 1 ½ inch pieces cinnamon stick

5 bay leaves

¼ teaspoon black peppercorns

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

A 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips

2 pounds leg of lamb, cut into large (1 ½ to 2-inch) cubes, including, if possible, four 1 to 1 ½ inch thick bone-in slices from the shank end

1 cup plain yogurt, whisked until smooth

¼ teaspoon ground mace

2 teaspoons salt, or to taste

6 cups water

3 ¾ cups basmati rice

½ teaspoon saffron threads

1 tablespoon milk

Cut the orange zest off the orange sin strips with a vegetable peeler, leaving most of the white pith behind.  Cut the zest into long, thin strands and set aside.  Heat the ghee, butter, or canola oil in a large ovenproof casserole, preferably one with a lid, over medium heat until liquid.  Add the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon stick, bay leaves, peppercorns, and cumin and fennel seeds, and cook, stirring, until the fennel and cumin begin to turn a golden brown and the cinnamon stick, bay leaves, peppercorns, and cumin and fennel seeds, and cook, stirring, until the fennel and cumin begin to turn a golden brown and the cinnamon stick unfurls, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the ginger and cook, stirring, 1 minute, 1 minute.  Add the lamb pieces and cook, stirring every now and then, until the lamb begins to brown, about 10 minutes.

Add the reserved strands of orange zest and cook, stirring, 1 minute.  Add the yogurt, mace, salt, and water.  Bring to a boil, turn the heat down, and simmer, covered, until the meat is very tender, about 1 hour. 

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Remove the lamb to a bowl with a slotted spoon.  Ladle out 3 cups of the cooking liquid (along with any spices that are in it) and add to the bowl with the lamb; set aside.  Put the rice in the casserole with the leftover cooking liquid and add water to cover by about 2 inches.  Bring to a boil, turn the heat down, and simmer vigorously 6 minutes.  Drain ad discard the cooking liquid.  Return the lamb and its reserved cooking liquid to the casserole.  Taste for salt.  Add the drained, cooked rice and smooth the top. 

Toast the saffron in a small frying pan over medium heat, stirring, until the saffron darkens to a maroon color, about 30 seconds (Do not burn.) Put the saffron in a mortar and grind to a powder, or crush in a bowl with the back of a spoon.  Add the milk and stir, then drizzle over the rice. 

Cover the casserole with foil and then the lid, if there is one.  Bake 45 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let stand 10 minutes at room temperature.  Stir the biriyani very gently to mix the met and the rice and serve hot with raita.